Subscribe

RSS Feed (xml)

Powered By

Skin Design:
Free Blogger Skins

Powered by Blogger

Tuesday, November 30, 2010

Benefits of Electronic Fly Killers

If you are in business, or own a house, and have a need to control flies, then the benefits of electronic fly killers may help you decide if one of these would be suitable for your fly problems. Electronic fly killers are used in many locations and are made for different applications. They are designed to kill flies quickly and efficiently. They usually have a large tray which catches the dead insects. The better types are almost maintenance free and have a fairly low running cost.

For those with commercial premises which are usually shops and small buildings, these devices are suitable for putting in areas where there tends to be a fly build up. These can be places such as the main area where customers may come in, where doors are either open or tend to be opened and shut fairly often, or warehouses where the main entrance is often open for long periods during the day.

They can also be used in hallways, corridors and garbage collection areas. There are many businesses and shops which could use this type of equipment. These types of electronic fly killers are suitable for food production and preparation areas, such as butcher shops, delicatessen, fresh fruit and vegetable shops, takeaway places, restaurants, especially in the kitchens, but also in the customer eating areas. Smaller cafes, food manufacturers, factories which do food processing and packaging, plus other places like these can benefit from one of these killers.

Because these are all food production type businesses there is a requirement for these premises to have an insect killer which does not shatter the insects around the room spreading bacteria or viruses and other debris into food areas.

Other uses areas where the electronic fly killing equipment could be used are abattoirs / meat processing rooms and the rest of the plant, such as the killing and boning room. They are also used on dairy farms in the milk rooms and other places, especially if milk is processed on site and not picked up by a tanker. Piggeries, calf rearing facilities, goat dairies and many other similar applications can also use these to stop flies.

These types of fly killers are made with a unique system which helps to minimise the shattering of flies and other insects. They all use the ultra violet light to attract the insects, and are fitted with trays to catch the dead remains. Most of these products have shatter proof tubes and lamps to reduces the effects of glass breakage, and can be wall or ceiling mounted.

The way they work is by electrocuting the insect, which eliminates the use of chemicals or sprays and which are used by many other fly trapping methods. They are sometimes called "bug zappers" due to the sound which is made when an insect is killed.

For those that have large production premises, businesses, shops or even a house which would benefit from an electronic fly killer, a search on the internet for these types of companies will give you an idea of the number of businesses which deal in these products. A call, or an email, should get you in contact with someone who may be able to help you with an electronic fly killer.

organic infant clothing

Friday, November 26, 2010

How to Repel Chiggers Today

Many today are thinking it is time to start thinking about repelling chiggers and ticks. The first best rule of repelling chiggers is to avoid them. Now, avoiding does not necessarily mix with repelling, but truth be told, wouldn't you much rather avoid than to repel?

But, if you insist in going where chiggers thrive, repelling is the next best rule. So just how can you repel something you cannot even see? The art of war says to know your enemy. So, what do we know about this enemy known as chigger?

We know the chigger larva:
Measures about 120th of an inch in size
Like thick darker wooded areas with dense leaves, bushes, dead-decaying wood and bark and tall grass.
Larva is the active ingredient in chigger bites.
Chiggers like warm, moist snug places to bite.
Chiggers are not blood suckers.
Chiggers do not bore into the skin.
Chiggers are lazy.
Chiggers travel fast or relatively so.
Female chiggers like men.
Male chiggers like women.

Now that it is known what chiggers like it is possible to gear up to do battle with an appropriate chigger treatment plan.

Since chiggers are so small they can penetrate almost any fabric or opening. They also like warm and most and tight areas best. (The like to get close to their meal.)  They are lazy.

Therefore it suggested loose fitting, light colored clothing be chosen with the pants legs tucked into the boots (taller is better), long sleeve shirts of a rather tight weave. Since chiggers are lazy they will look for an opening to breach first. Once inside they will look for a nice warm tight place to order dinner.

Male chiggers seem to prefer the under arms and under the breasts of their female hosts. While the female chigger prefers the groin, stomach and legs of their male hosts. This does not always hold true as there are some mixed up chiggers.

Sulfur available from the drug store, knows as flowers of sulfur, can be applied around all clothing openings and up and down the legs.

DEET is also an affective repellents, however the chemicals can cause serious brain damage if applied directly to the skin. Use only on clothing and please, never on little children. There are several essential oils available for repelling chiggers.

Because chiggers do not bore in but bite we know they can be easily knocked off.  So do a brush off every few minutes to knock anything off that has not yet gotten through your first and second layer of defenses.

Do not travel in those areas known be inhabited by chiggers. Since chiggers are lazy they will not chase you down, but they will drop on you if you get close to where they are hanging out. Usually on the tips of very tall grass.

Now go have a great chigger free summer.

organic infant clothing mr steam

Monday, November 22, 2010

Insect Defend Patch 30 second Commercial

Hi, I'm Italo Labignan, host of the Canadian Sportfishing Televison Series. I've fished all over the world in some of the most mosquito infested waters imaginable. Recently I've discovered a great new way to fight the enemy. It's called the Insect Defend Patch and it's made with vitamin B1. It's DEET free, easy to use and very affective! I use the Insect Defend Patch to protect me and my family. Pick some up today!

general dentistry

Thursday, November 18, 2010

Attic Animals and Their Antics!

I guess it's pretty safe to say that not many people like critters rustling about in their attics and ceilings while they're trying to get some shuteye, am I right? In fact, it can be nothing short of enraging when you're trying to sleep but all you can hear is that incessant gnawing! Gadz!

There are several species out of which one or more are most likely the culprit/s. Of course, your geographic location can change the list of suspects somewhat, but in any case, there are a few universally key figures in the "attic migration" business. I'll attempt to name these:


Field mice
Rats
Squirrels
Raccoons
Birds
Snakes
Bats.

This is not a comprehensive list by any means, but it may give you an idea of what you're up against. There may very likely be an animal that's not on the list but that's native to your particular area, and just so happens to be very prevalent. It may help to do a bit of research on this. You should know that even a small animal's foot steps can seem very loud depending on the structure of your house. Thin ceilings that are made out of only a sheet of paneling or some sheetrock can amplify the foot steps significantly and make it sound like a larger animal.

There happen to be a lot a' field mice right around where I live, and I can hear them every now and then above my ceiling as well. These mice are only as big as my thumb but in the dead of the night they can sound like a herd a' antelope! So don't freak out too much thinking you have a wolverine in your attic, as it's most likely just a raccoon or even a tiny field mouse. But it is wise to find out what you have up there and deal with it appropriately. Who knows, you just might have that colony of beavers living right out of your attic! Animals present a wide array of potential dangers and damages to your home including gnawing away at your structural posts as well as electrical wiring! Wow, that changes things doesn't it? I mean, the rascally rodent probably zapped his naughty arse to kingdom come but if your house burns down because of it, it won't be so funny then!

Not to mention the gnawing of your structural beams and pillars can over time, pose a reasonable threat to the integrity of your building as well. Another annoying trick these animals have up their sleeves is staining your ceiling tiles with their excrement. Being that they are in essence living right on the other side of your ceiling, any waste matter, liquid or otherwise, will follow the course of gravity. This often results in an extremely repugnant stain on the underside of your ceiling.

Various diseases these animals are known to carry pose another significant threat. Rabies, mange, and salmonella are just a few of the nasty diseases these animals carry. Do not get within biting range of these animals without protection, and if in doubt as to how to handle these creatures, get professional assistance!

In conclusion, you should attempt to locate the entrance points that the animals are using to access your lovely home, and seal them. Animals aren't exactly the smoothest of criminals and will blatantly leave "evidence" such as hair, droppings, foot prints, skins, bones, nest-building material, etc, and you can use these bits of information to identify the animal and locate their points of entrance.

You may very well have to seal up multiple holes so don't assume your job's finished after the first one. Places like under the roof eaves and cracked or broken crawl-space vents, as well as any vents in general, are all prime entrance points for critters! Once you locate the entrance points, stake them out with a pair of binoculars for the money shot. Depending on what you have on your hands, you may want to call for professional assistance. Do what you can but call for the pros if you feel you're in over your head!

Neckline Slimmer nasal aspirator

Sunday, November 14, 2010

How to Get Rid of Chipmunks

Having Chipmunk Problems?

They may look like tree-living squirrels with their tiny noses, puffed cheeks, and bushy tails, but chipmunks are not baby squirrels. Believe it or not, the two are different but related animals. Chipmunks are ground squirrels; they are the burrowing cousins of the larger tree-climbing species. This, of course, explains the pockmarked look of your garden lot. These furry critters dig and build their homes and shelters underground. This is what sets them apart from their tree-loving relatives, which spend most of their time in trees.

Aside from their choice of real estate and relative smallness, chipmunks differ from their cousins by possessing identifying stripes. Chipmunks are distinguished by two broad black stripes that run from the tops of their heads to their rounded rumps. This is the most telltale sign that the critter chewing your spring flower bulb is a chipmunk. That, and the shrill "chip chip" retort they make when you dash out at them with your newspaper in hand.
Approaches to Chipmunk Control

Before deciding on how to get rid of chipmunks, it is important to learn their habits. Chipmunks are mighty eaters. They spend their life eating, foraging, and storing food. What is the key to getting rid of chipmunks? The key is finding out what chipmunks eat. Chipmunks eat anything and everything from grass to your pizza crusts. Their main diet usually includes fungi, plants, nuts, grains, seeds, and the occasional insect. If worse comes to worst, chipmunks are also known to catch small birds and small rodents like shrews though they do not actively look for these hardy protein sources; they are content to search the ground for edible finds. Chipmunks are not born to be climbers, but they have been observed climbing roofs, poles, trees, and bird feeders to gather seeds, acorns and nuts.

Aside from food, chipmunks are also wary of very open spaces, which is not surprising since they live underground. They tend to stay within shaded areas even while looking for food. Their burrows are usually built in the shade of solid matter like a tree stump or your porch. In your bid to eradicate chipmunks, these are two weaknesses you should exploit to put an end to your chipmunk problems.

*Reader Tip* Several readers have had success with the "bucket method." Here's the original tip from Jonathan: "You can get a bucket of water and float sunflower seeds at the top. Make a ramp to get to the bucket. It's a foolproof method: the chipmunk cant get out."
Getting Rid Of Chipmunks

Now that you know their weaknesses, it's time to put your knowledge into action. As much as these furry critters wreak havoc in your garden, one can hardly think of shooting them into extinction. There are many other ways to get rid of chipmunks so be creative.

An inexpensive chipmunk control option is to keep a pet. In the urban jungle, cats can be an effective (and fuzzy) weapon against these feisty fur balls. If you're feeling adventurous, take your pick from badgers, weasels or hawks. These are the natural predators of chipmunks. They stalk their prey in the shade and the poor chipmunk won't have any idea what happened until it hits the predator's tummy.

For a less morbid option, live chipmunk traps are effective elimination tools that are sold in most hardware stores. You can get a couple of comfortable size traps and just add seeds, nuts, oats or whatever your chipmunk fancies. Secure the traps in shaded areas or wherever your enemy frequently hangs out. Patience is not even required because where there is food, chipmunks will come. Once trapped, drive to the far side of town and let the critters out. Better yet, drop them off in the nearest national park.

If these don't work, just give these fur balls a taste of their own medicine. The trick to getting these chipmunks to leave your place willingly is to limit their food supply. You don't have to strip your garden bare; just spray pepper solution or hot sauce on your plants and the places where your furry friend stays and surely, they'll move out.

Still, if these tricks don't work, your chipmunks are a hardy bunch. Just dial pest control and invest in a professional chipmunk extermination program. Now, that's a foolproof way to get rid of chipmunks.

ear thermometer

Wednesday, November 10, 2010

Top 7 Ways That May Help You Avoid Insect Bites

Insect bites can ruin any summer picnic or gathering and make enjoying outdoors impossible. Red itchy bumps on skin are not the only unfortunate result of mosquito, gnat and fire ant bites, some of these insects are carriers of dangerous diseases and infections. Insect bite rash can develop as a result if you are especially sensitive to the substances that gnats and mosquitoes inject in human skin.

Take steps to protect yourself and your family from annoying flying and crawling creatures ruining your best summer days. Start planning the outdoors season many months ahead by preparing your backyard and areas around the house to make them less hospitable to uninvited insect guests. Treat your lawns with special biodegradable insect control product that will help keep red fire ants, ticks and mosquitoes at bay.

Follow this 7 Step guide to help you avoid insect bites and enjoy great time outside.

1. Inspect your yard for areas with stagnant water that are almost always the spots mosquitoes frequent the most like bird baths or fake ponds.
2. Do not use floral perfumes or lotions in the summer months, since fruity and flowery notes are very attractive to all types of insects and make you more prone to getting bitten. Try to stick to natural scentless skin and hair products and neutral colors of clothing.
3. Plant plenty of marigolds, basil, lavender and peppermint around your backyard to help you avoid insect bites because some gnats and mosquitoes find the scent of these plants unappealing.
4. Stay away from DEET containing bug sprays since they have been reported to be quite toxic if used regularly covering larger parts of the body or on children. Try using naturally based insect repellent sprays instead containing citronella, lemongrass, peppermint and vanilla oils for worry-free and effective protection against insect bites.
5. Wear protective footwear and clothing preferably in lighter colors, so any insects settling on you can be obviously seen. If you spend lots of time outdoors, try to choose long pants and light long-sleeve shirt to cover as much skin as possible to naturally protect yourself against blood-sucking invaders.
6. Burning citronella incenses at the table is, in fact, a double-protection against insect bites since mosquitoes and gnats detest the smell of citronella and smoke. Avoid serving bananas as part of your dinner course since most insects adore this sweet-smelling fruit.
7. Multiple studies reported that taking vitamin B1 supplements starting in April throughout the summer is a proven way to make you less prone to getting insect bites

72hour Automatic Blood Pressure Monitor stomach stapling

Saturday, November 6, 2010

Home Mosquito Control - Turning Your Yard Into Hostile Territory For Mosquitoes

The No-Fly zone: Turning your yard into hostile territory for mosquitoes

Ready to get rid of those mosquitoes around the house? Great. But there's one thing you should know about home mosquito control right up front.

There's no silver bullet to mosquito prevention, no one product or tactic guaranteed to clear them out of your yard. And you will never be able to get them all; it's just not possible. The best you do is thin out their numbers and lessen the odds of getting bitten when you go out of the house.

To accomplish this, you'll have to use a combination of approaches. That includes ferreting out the possible mosquito breeding sites around your house, making the yard as inhospitable as you can, and attacking the adult swarms with everything from mosquito traps to mosquito spray.

It will take some time, and yes, cost you some money, as well, but when you're done, you will be able to relax outside your home, confident that you're as safe from the marauding bloodsuckers as you possibly can be.

Effective mosquito control starts with a thorough inspection of the potential battlefield, so let's head outside for a look around.

Is your yard a breeding ground for mosquitoes?

On your way out, check all the doors and windows in the house. Every window that opens should have a screen that fits tightly into place - no gaps around the edges - and is in good repair, without cuts or holes.

Same for entrances. You need a good screen door for each. When closed, the screen door should be snug against the door frame, and the screen should not have any damage that would allow mosquitoes to get inside.

Of course, they don't do any good if you raise the window screens along with the windows, or leave the screen door propped wide when the house door is open. Mosquitoes can and will come into the house any chance they get, so make sure to always keep the screens in place.

Outside, you need to look for standing water, in both the obvious places and the not-so-obvious. The folks at the Alameda County (Cal.) Mosquito Control District put it best on their website:

"The main rule when it comes to breeding grounds for mosquitoes is that they need stagnant water in order to lay their eggs. What most people don't realize is the surprising number of areas around their own house where mosquitoes can find the stagnant water they need. The main rule: If it can hold water for more than a few days, it can breed mosquitoes."

Female mosquitoes can lay their eggs in as little as an inch of water. So look for these likely places where mosquitoes can breed:



Tree holes - Some mosquitoes favor laying their eggs in hollowed-out places in trees where rainwater collects. Dealing with these can be tricky because insecticide might harm the tree, as could removing part of it. You may want to consult a landscaping expert or tree service for help.



Yard equipment - An upright wheelbarrow, an empty flowerpot, or even an abandoned shovel can hold water long enough to develop mosquito larvae. Store equipment inside, or turn it over so that rain will run off. Drill holes in the bottoms of containers that must remain outside, so they can drain.



Tarps - Any kind of plastic or nylon cover, whether it is draped over a stack of firewood or a boat, will eventually begin to sag and develop pockets where water can collect. Tighten them where you can and check them frequently.



Toys - Rain will fill toy trucks, teacup sets, or Frisbees left lying in the grass. The same for old-fashioned tire swings, which collect stagnating rainwater, or any old tire left laying in the yard. Make sure the kids pick up after themselves, and get rid of the tires.



Puddles - You may have low spots in the yard where water gathers and is slow to drain. If the water stands for more than a week at a time, you'll get mosquitoes during the warm months. Fill in the spots, install drainage pipes, or change the landscaping to keep the water away.



Rain gutters - When the gutters on your house get clogged with debris, water can back up and become stagnant. Check the gutters regularly, especially if you have heavy leaf fall. Also, keep the yard raked. Overturned leaves hold water, and mosquitoes like to breed in them.



Birdbaths and wading pools - Take a hose to the birdbath at least once a week during warm weather to keep the water from stagnating. Turn the kids' pool over and stand it up against a wall when they aren't using it. If you have a swimming pool, make sure you clean and service it regularly.

OK, you've taken care of the standing water in the yard. Now, since mosquitoes like to rest in warm, moist vegetation during the day, make sure you keep the grass cut and the bushes trimmed, and clear all the weeds out of the flower beds regularly. Water the grass and plants enough to keep them healthy, but avoid doing it so much everything stays wet.

Natural mosquito control around the home

Next, you may want to make a few additions to the yard that can help control mosquitoes organically.

You've probably heard of the citrosa, called the "mosquito plant," that's supposed to miraculously repel mosquitoes just by its presence. Unfortunately, that's not completely true. Mosquito control studies have shown that an undisturbed citrosa has very little effect on the pesky bloodsuckers.

However, the citrosa leaves do contain citronella oil, which is a mosquito repellent. And there are other plants with oils and fragrances believed to irritate mosquitoes, including citronella grass, lemon thyme, catnip and rosemary.

The trick is that you have to crush the leaves in order to release the mosquito repellents. Not terribly effective as an active measure, but it might be worth planting some around your favorite spots, so you can rub the leaves on your skin when you're outside, to help keep the mosquitoes away.

This is also a good time to think about a small decorative pond to aid in mosquito control.

If you have one already, it's a good bet mosquitoes breed in it, unless it gets a constant flow of fresh water. A natural way to treat the pond for mosquitoes is to stock it with gambusia, also known as the mosquito eating fish.

Gambusia feed on mosquito larvae, primarily wigglers at the surface. They grow to about two inches and require no care. About 35 to 100 are enough to keep a small ornamental pond relatively free of mosquitoes, according to Rutgers University entomologists.

Many local mosquito control districts will provide them for free as long as they are kept somewhere that does not connect to other water environments. Gambusia are predatory fish and have been known to feed on the young of other native species.

Meanwhile, if you don't have a pond, it could be a good idea to get one installed. Designed correctly, a small decorative pond can attract dragonflies, sometimes known as "mosquito hawks" because they feed on both mosquito larvae and adult mosquitoes.

The British Dragonfly Society recommends the pond be at least 130 square feet, but obviously, you can go much smaller. Put it somewhere protected from wind, but where it can receive direct sunlight to keep the dragonflies warm.

The pond needs to be deep at one end, at least two feet, and shallow at the other, so dragonfly larvae, called "nymphs," can dive when threatened by predators and eventually crawl out of the water once they've grown.

Stock the pond with native aquatic plants that rise above the surface, giving the larvae a place to rest and hide in the roots, and the young adults a place to rest out of the water. Also plant shrubs close by to encourage the adults to stick around.

Surround the pond with flat, light-colored rocks. Some dragonflies like to land on flat rocks to sun themselves.

One quick note: You may have heard that bats and purple martins also are handy to have around because they eat mosquitoes. But researchers say those are fallacies. Bats prefer other insects, with mosquitoes making up less than one percent of their diet. Purple martins are partial to dragonflies.

Mosquito spraying and other forms of attack

Now that you've turned your yard downright unfriendly toward mosquitoes, it's time to take a little more aggressive action. Again, you'll need to use a combination of tactics.

One of those involves insecticide.

You can kill mosquito larvae in standing water with a product like Mosquito Bits, which contains the Bacillus thuringiensis israeliensis bacteria, the most effective larvacide, or you can apply a larvacidal oil to the water's surface to keep the larvae from breathing.

Adults are susceptible to foggers and mosquito spray.

Foggers heat insecticide and release it into the yard in low volumes, killing mosquitoes on contact, but the fog, and its effectiveness, wear off within a few hours. A mosquito spray, such as permethrin or bifenthrin, lasts a little longer and can be used to coat areas where mosquitoes like to rest.

Spray the grass, trees, bushes, wooden fences and walls of the house, then let it dry. The poison, a synthetic version of the insecticide produced by the chrysanthemum plant, kills mosquitoes on contact by attacking their nervous systems.

You can find larvacides, foggers and sprays in most hardware and home improvement stores.

Believe it or not, you are still going to have mosquitoes, even after all of this. Different tricks work with different species, and there could be tens of thousands of mosquitoes from a dozen or more species flying around your neighborhood.

To add the next layer of protection, replace the regular lights bulbs in your outside lights with yellow bulbs, which attract significantly fewer insects. Then, put a mosquito trap in your yard, away from the deck, patio or anywhere you normally spend time.

Mosquito traps mimic the attractants that draw female mosquitoes to feed on human bodies. They release carbon dioxide and Octenol, found in exhaled breath and sweat, and they emit heat and light in ranges designed to stimulate the mosquitoes.

The traps can lure mosquitoes from more than 100 feet away, then sweep them through a fan into a container where they die. While you sit comfortably, the mosquitoes are tricked away from you to another corner of the yard and quietly disposed of by your trap.

Within about two months of running the trap, you can expect to see significant reductions in the local mosquito population, as female after female is drawn in and dies without laying more eggs.

And that's it. You have implemented a thorough, comprehensive program of home mosquito control. Now put on a little mosquito repellent with DEET - you can't be too careful - and go enjoy a nice summer evening outdoors.

72hour

Tuesday, November 2, 2010

Preparing to Travel Overseas and Exotic Far Away Locations

No matter where we are located, there is still a chance of getting sick. Nevertheless, it becomes more difficult for the individual when it happens outside of his or her comfort zone. Depending on the area, country, or region some individuals can become more prone to illness because of the stress of the new environment or climate. Being prepared and protected can lessen the chances of being in this unpleasant situation.

The first step is to bring an emergency first aid kit to your new destination and while in the mode of transport. It's easy to put together one or if not readily available first aid kits can be bought from stores. Prescription medication should be brought in ample amounts and must be accessible to the person needing them. The doctor's prescription itself must also be brought in case more medication needs to be purchased. Syringes and other medical apparatus should have corresponding doctor's certificates proving the necessity of their use. This might be a requirement in some foreign countries.

Getting travel insurance is a practical move. The extra cost for coverage is reasonable given that hospitalization fees or treatment can be more expensive abroad. People who plan to travel to developing countries must consult their doctors at least four weeks prior to departure. This will give enough time for immunization requirements. Immunizations are important in helping the body defend itself from harmful microorganisms. Even if most citizens have already received their fair share of vaccinations, booster or follow up shots can further strengthen the immune system. An example of this is the yearly flu shot. Some countries and regions compel all visitors to have specific types of vaccines. In South America and sub-Saharan Africa, for instance, it is mandatory to have yellow fever vaccination upon entry. The government will request for proof of immunization. A travel medicine professional can provide the update requirements for countries and will give advice on how to take caution against common diseases found in your destination.

Parasites carried by mosquitoes cause malaria. These insects are often present in tropical countries. Complications in the liver, lungs and kidneys can occur when it is left untreated. Symptoms of malaria include abdominal pain, fever, chills, weakness, diarrhea, muscle aches, cough, and vomiting. Organ failure can soon follow after these symptoms. Any person who has a fever after being in a malaria-endemic region must go to a doctor immediately. One symptom or a combination of these can be felt within two months of the mosquito bite. Prevent bites by avoiding all outdoor activities at night. Wear pants, long-sleeved shirts and apply DEET insect repellent. Use mosquito nets when sleeping at night.

Traveler's diarrhea affects travelers who visit developing countries and other tourist destinations. It is categorized as the most common illness afflicting visitors and is caused by infectious bacteria, virus or parasite when contaminated food or drink is taken in. Avoid raw food and only eat fruits that can be easily cleaned like berries or grapes. Food sold by street vendors should also be avoided.

72hour organic infant clothing